Lisbon runs on bica. That is the local word for a short, strong espresso. You will hear it shouted over every counter in the city.
For years the bica was dark, bitter and cheap. It still is, in many places. But since 2015 a new wave of small roasters has arrived. They bring lighter roasts, filter coffee and direct sourcing.
Start with the classics
Begin in an old pastry shop. Order a bica and a pastel de nata. Stand at the counter like a local. The coffee costs about one euro.
This is the baseline. It helps you taste the difference when you move on.
Then try the new wave
The new cafés cluster in a handful of neighbourhoods. Look near the river and in the hills behind the old town.
Most are small. Many have six or eight seats. Menus list the origin, the process and the roast date.
What to order
Order a filter coffee if you want to taste the beans. Order a flat white if you want milk. Ask the barista what is new. They will be glad to tell you.
The best café in a city is often the one with no sign.
Practical tips
Cafés open early, often by eight. Many close by six. Cash is still common in older places, but cards work in most newer ones.
Walk. The hills are steep, but each climb ends in a view and a cup.
